Improvement in settings for gems



W. A. BATES. Setting for Gems.

No. 202,402. Patented 'April 16, I878.

Wilqesses. I Irp/eqlut N-PETERS, FHOTO-LITHOGRAPHER, WASWNGTONv D C.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

WILLIAM A. BATES, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

IMPROVEMENT INSETTINGS FOR GEMS.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 202,402, dated April16, 1878; application filed January 23, 1878.

' ment in Settings for Jewels, of which the following is aspecification:

This invention relates to an improved setting for diamonds; and consistsin a setting the prongs of which are composed of gold or its alloys,tipped with platinum, or an equivalent white metal more nearly the colorof the diamond than gold, thetips of the prongs being scarcelyperceptible when viewing the diamond from its top.

Rings, pins, earrings, and other articles of jewelry set with diamondsare usually composed of gold, and the prongs holding the diamonds areusually of gold corresponding in color with that of the main part of thering or other article. The ends of these gold prongs,

extended above the diamonds, show very plainly when looking at the topof the diamond, and form a seeming boundary-line for and show thediamond to be of a certain di ameter, whereas if they did not show, thereflection of light from the diamond would make it appear larger.

The ring, if so held as not to show the prongs distinctly when lookingat the diamond in top view, is much more handsome and desirable.

To overcome this objection to the use of gold prongs in diamond pins,rings, 850., diamonds have been held by platinum prongs rising from aplatinum base attached to the article made of gold. This construction isobjectionable, because, when viewing the ring, pin, or other articlefrom the side, the platinum base and prongs contrast strongly with theyellow gold, and destroy the beauty of the ring or other ornament.

By my invention I am enabled to produce a ring, pin, or other ornamentcontaining a diamond, which, in side view, will appear as if made onlyof gold, and which, if viewed from the top of the diamond, will scarcelyshow the platinum points which hold the edge of the diamond. Suchpoints, nearly approximating the color of the diamond, seem to losethemselves in the reflection of the stone, whereas the gold points,being darker than the stone, throw into the stone a shadow.

Figure 1 shows my invention embodied in a finger-ring; but it is obviousthat the invention is applicable to all articles of jewelry where adiamond is to be set and held; and Fig. 2 represents one of the' prongsvery much enlarged.

The ring a, of gold, has prongs 11, also of gold, rising from a goldbase, 0. The extreme tops of the prongs b are made of platinum, as

at d, the platinum points embracing the edges of the diamond e, asshown. Each prong is cut away at its upper end, forming a shoulder, f,upon which to support the platinum point d, and the prong and point arethen brazed or soldered together. After the point is secured to theprong, the upper and inner corner of the latter is cut away, as at 9, sothat the edge of the platinum point exposed by cutting away the prong ispermitted to come in contact with the edge of the diamond.

It is obvious that the invention herein described might be used to setstones having the appearance of, or being imitations of, diamonds. Theshape of the shoulder f may be changed without departing from myinvention.

I claim- 1. A setting for gems, the main body of the prongs of which arecomposed of gold or its compounds, the ends of the prongs being formedof platinum, or a metal of lighter color than gold, substantially as andfor the purpose set forth.

2. In a gem-setting, the shouldered prongs b, incombination with thepoints (I, supported thereon and united with the prongs, substantiallyas described.

In testimony whereof I have signed myname to this specification in thepresence of two subscribing witnesses.

WILLIAM ALEX. BATES.

lVitnesses:

G. W. GREGORY, JNo. D. PATTEN.

